Tuesday, November 27, 2007

A salute to the bra, after a century of support


By SAMANTHA THOMPSON SMITH
McClatchy Newspapers

One hundred years ago, Vogue coined the term "brassiere."

Since then, it's been called plenty: The 18 Hour bra, the Cross Your Heart bra, the training bra, the padded bra, the sports bra, the front-close bra, the strapless bra, the backless bra, the plunge bra, the sheer bra, the Wonderbra, the convertible bra, the T-back bra, the Bralette, the minimizer, and every teenage boy's favorite, the over-the-shoulder boulder holder.

Love it, hate it, burn it or embrace it, the bra endures.

Sizing things up

Fifteen years ago, the average American woman's bra size was 34B. Last year, the average was 36C, says Norah Alberto, senior style director for Maidenform. Part of the reason is that Americans simply are getting bigger. But it's also the result of more people getting fitted for bras and finding out they've been wearing the wrong size all along.

Oprah gave the whole bra-fitting concept a huge lift in 2005, when she did two shows on the importance of getting fitted. She repeated what most of the industry had been saying for a while: A majority of women are wearing the wrong size. At least seven out of 10 women, Alberto says.

But as it turns out, you shouldn't just do it once. You need to get measured at least every year, especially if you are older than 40, Alberto says.

Why? Because breasts are always changing.

On average, a woman's breast size and shape change at least six times in her life, according to Susan Nethero, author of BraTalk. Most women experience a change every five years, likely from a 10-pound weight gain or loss, if they start or stop exercising, if they are pregnant or nursing or if they start or stop using birth control pills or hormone-replacement therapy.

Signs that you're wearing the wrong size

Two of the most common mistakes are wearing a bra too large in the band and too small in the cup, says Ruth Dowdy owner of the Pennyrich Bra Patch in Raleigh, N.C.

"You know your bra doesn't fit properly if the back rides up between your shoulder blades," she said.

That means the band is either too large or stretched out, and you aren't getting the support you need for lift in the cup.

Have a fit right here

Where can you get fitted?

Most department stores, including Nordstrom and J.C. Penney, and other national chains such as Lane Bryant, offer bra-fitting services.

You can also go to lingerie boutiques.

Wear and spares

Most women on average own 14 bras but wear just six regularly, according to Maidenform.

How many bras should you have? Nethero says at a minimum three: One to wear, one in the wash and one on standby. Then add more so that you have seven to 10 bras that fit well and you can wear regularly.

But remember to replace them frequently. Most bras begin to wear out after 90 wearings, according to Maidenform.

For many women, that's between six and nine months, said Maureen Stabnau, senior vice president of merchandising at BareNecessities.com.

Dowdy says not to wear the same bra two days in a row. Body fluids react with the fibers, breaking down the suppleness of the elastic.

Time to shop

How can you tell it's time for a new one?

Start hooking a new bra on the first hook, then move in to the next hook as it stretches. "Once you hit that very last hook, you're done. The bra is done," Stabnau said.

And if your strap keeps falling down, it might be another sign it's time for a replacement.

What to look for in a new bra

The most comfortable bra is the one that fits the most firmly, Nethero said.

"Remember: If it's saggy in the loosest hook position when it's brand-new, it'll be even worse later on," she says.

Make sure there aren't any gaping spaces between the cup and your breasts. But your cups shouldn't be overflowing. A good-fitting bra should lift and separate about one inch at the breastbone, Hendricks recommends.

The cost of support

Women are spending more money on bras. From September 2006 to August, women spent $6 billion on bras, up from $5.6 billion during the same period last year, according to the market-research company NPD Group.

The average price was $13.44, up from $13.05 last year.

How to wash your undies

All the experts agree the best way to care for your bra is to hand-wash them.

But who has the time? Try washing them in the washer in a net lingerie bag, with the hooks clasped so they don't catch on anything in the washer, Alberto says. Make sure to use cool water with a delicate soap.

The biggest no-no? Never put your bra in the dryer.

"The elastic used in the making of bras is not intended to withstand the high temperatures that a dryer can reach," Dowdy said.


Star-Telegram.com: 11/27/2007 A salute to the bra, after a century of support

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